FAQ

Every HVAC contractor has there own specific way to perform a routine maintenance which is usually some type of point inspection list that there technicians follow. Here is a list of what our technicians check:

• Clean washable filter then replace.
• Replace old filter with new filter and date it.
• Check primary and secondary condensate drain free flowing.
• Inspection evaporator secondary drain pan.
• Check  temperature differential at supply and return plenums for 20 degree split.
• Inspect blower, blower wheel, fan motor and fan blade for imbalance, loud noises.  
• Inspect heat exchanger for cracks or air coming out through the burner area.
• Test amperage and voltage on all motors and compressors and compare to RLA.
• Inspect area around furnace for combustibles.
• Tighten all electrical connections and check all contactors, relays and transformers for abnormal buzzing.
• Perform a static pressure test with a monometer.
• Measure the temperature heat rise to airflow and adjust gas valve if necessary.
• Test Heating cycle for proper and safe operation.
• Test safety switch operations.
• Test for gas leaks.
• Test for carbon monoxide.
• Test furnace exhaust for proper venting.
• Inspect ducting in attic for tears, crushed pipe, dislocated pipe and dirty insulation around wye branch and fittings for indications of leaks.
• Clean condenser coil. 
• We do not put gauges on a condenser unit unless some of the above listed items do not check out. If your system is tight with no leaks and running fine we like your refrigerant to stay as clean as possible. 

If your air conditioning system is working but not cooling effectively and your not sure if you should call a licensed ac contractor, there are a few tests you can do to determine how your ac is working. 

• Before testing make sure outdoor temperature is at least 85 degrees. Most air conditioner work fine under 85 degrees then struggle when temperatures rise above that if your system isn’t performing properly.
• Make sure your filter is clean from dust and debris. Dirty filters can cause restrictions in the air flow which equates to less air less cooling.
• Make sure all your supply registers are fully open, some times registers are closed off to redirect airflow. This can cause less over all airflow through out the rest of the system and reduce performance dramatically.
• Use a thermostat at a supply register and a return air grill that is closest to the furnace or air handler, take a few minutes to get an accurate reading on both the return and supply. The difference between the two should be at least 20 degrees plus or minus 3 degrees. If so, and still not cooling, there could be issues with ductwork.
• If you have over plus 3 degrees there could be an issue like low airflow, under minus 3 degrees there could be an issue like low refrigerant.
•  This only applies to a single stage system because variable speed and 2 stage system operate on lower differences in temperature at different stages but those system have smart technology running them, and they usually fault and error code if there is something significantly wrong with there performance.
• If you notice that your supply register have condensate on then while your system is running and are rusty you can possibly have issues with air flow or system capacity.  

There are many factors that contribute to air flow problem. but one thing that is always certain is that air likes to travel the path of least resistance, so rooms that are closer to the furnace or air handler typically get more airflow. This can be corrected by using balancing dampers to close off some of the air vents closest to the furnace. Other internal issue are:

• Ducting in general can be undersized. Rooms that are far away and when the ducting is to small, the air tends to lose momentum once it gets to the register and fizzles out. This problem can be easily remedied by increasing the size of the duct pipe and register or by adding a booster fan if some conditions are met. 
• There’s just not enough return air because some furnaces/air handlers are located in a closets and are limited. If your not getting enough air, you certainly cant give it. So you can only get what the return air grill can deliver. Certain things we do to mitigate this problem is to relocate the system to the attic, then we can take full advantage of all the air the furnace/air handler has to offer and design a really comfortable system.
• Another is measure the existing return air capabilities, then discuss with the clients which room(s) would be most important to keep and which can be eliminated. Then re-design the supply duct system to cater to those specific rooms and make them really comfortable. Would it be better to have a few really comfortable rooms in the house, rather than a bunch of rooms that are barely satisfactory.   
• Rooms that tend to go unnoticed if they have air in them or not are bathrooms, kitchens and laundry rooms which homeowners with airflow issues usually close them off anyway.

The most common reason an air conditioner may freeze up, is due to a dirty filter. This slows down the air flow across the evaporator coil. With out getting to technical. think of it this way. Water freezes at 32 degrees. An air conditioning evaporator coil operates at 40 degrees. Water trickling down a 32 degree evaporator coil will freeze. Water trickling down a 40 degree evaporator coil will not freeze. So the slower the air moves across a 40 degree coil the temperature of the coil will drop, and as the air continues to get slower and slower till finally the temperature of the coil reached 32 degrees freezing. Other issues like low refrigerant, dirty evaporator coils, faulty blowers, high MERV rated filters on an already high static system, Very restricted ducts. These other issues should be addressed by a licensed HVAC contractor.